Formal, Black Tie-Smoking & Dress Shoes

There are certainly a few choices of shoe correct for Smoking; I leave my favourite for last.  First let me say I personally avoid Patent Leather; I find it too showy and even the best patent soon creases unacceptably and cracks with age.  Not to mention that the plastic impregnated leather does not breath well, and so the tendency is for one's feet to perspire......

Some gentlemen wear a Velvet Slipper either with a decorative motif or without. Although I have always had a pair or two of these, I find them charming but not entirely practical.  Velvet slippers cost as much as any shoe but are very much more fragile; the cloth is easily damaged and the shoe can look shabby even before it has any wear to the bottom.  Useful for dusting under the sofa.

Another choice is the calfskin Plain Toe Slipper or Formal Pump with Bow. This is more practical to be sure.  Still, these are usually lighter shoes, mostly Blake Stitched or glued for a sleeker profile, that, apart from the best made examples, lose their shape after several wearings, fail to support the foot and end a gentleman's long evening in discomfort. 

My first choice for all formal occasions is either a welted Plain Cap-Toe Oxford (Pic.#4) or Derby, or a Plain Front Oxford (Pic.#5) or Derby. These are absolutely correct with black tie (smoking) or white tie (tails) and they are real shoe, shoes that will give support throughout a long (for instance) wedding week-end.  They have the further advantage of being appropriate for semi-formal, evening and business wear...versatile shoes. The trick is to get a truly good pair that both looks the part and will last decades.